Total miles: Over 2,500!
hours on bike: a billion
days on the road: 46!
miles to go: I wish I could say 5, but I think its more like 1,500.
number of donuts to keep me going: enough to fill a Krispy Cream.
Dear Mr and Mrs Farmington America,
I am writing to you today, in regards to the frequent close encounters I am having, with all the wild dogs of the Ozark hills. I think its swell that you have dogs, I love dogs, and I know you must think they protect your property and your precious cattle. However, I find it very unnecessary to leave your pit bulls/rottweilers/german shepards/and even mangy terriers, off leash and free to roam the fields. This is not only terrifying and dangerous, for both myself and your puppy, but just down right rude. Please keep your dogs either tied up in the yard, behind a fence, or pretty much anywhere that I don't have to see them, hear them, or feel them biting at my ankles. I'm pretty sure my legs are a little crucial for me to keep pedaling, so please, don't make me get out the pepper spray..because I will use it.
and PS. Please, please, take down the Confederate flags hanging in your yard. That's even scarier.
Thanks!
So...I just thought I would include a little letter to all those farmers out there, which I should actually post up somewhere. The last few days there have been more than a few close calls with farm dogs. I was chased down by a pack of five yesterday, and after biking 80 miles already, its a bit hard to sprint uphill and out of their teeth's reach. I would more than love to grab the mase that's strapped on my bike (it really is, seriously) and spray a dog in the face, but, I feel that might be taking it a little far. I would like to keep my ankles bite free though. And yes, there have been numerous Confederate flag decorum sightings lately, which usually means I am in an all out pedaling spring at this point, trying to spin myself as far away as possible.
Back to the basics, I made it through ALL of Missouri in five days! I'm now in Chester, Illinois, basically straddling the border, but who's here to be the real judge. Although Missouri definitely lived up to all the hype of steep roller coaster hills, it has been a much needed and refreshing break from the never ending desolate prairies of Kansas. I think I may have even grown a few more leg muscles in the last few days, just trying to haul ass up those steep hills. It gets tough tugging around so much weight on the back of my bike, and usually takes all the strength I can muster to get to the top, and then I just have to do it all again, and again, and again. I find myself dreaming of the days when I could just ride my bicycle around the streets of San Francisco, with nothing on it! That's when I used to complain about just carrying a backpack to school...those were the days.
I have been riding through the Ozark hills, and if I knew my US geography I would have already known those were in Missouri. Since that's not the case, it was a nice surprise to find out how beautiful this state really is. I can feel the seasons beginning to change around me as well, and the leaves are starting to change and fall all around me as I ride the hills. Its feeling great to be out of the hot summer days, but I'm also beginning to feel the anxiety of the cold weather fast approaching, which means shorter days and less time to ride.
Yesterday was one of the most mentally draining and difficult days I have had; extremely steep hills to climb, cold grey rainy drizzle, no shoulder in all of Missouri, and mean dogs. After riding over 90 miles and not arriving in town until nearly dark, on the verge of tears, and nearly panicking; I was about at the end of the rope trying to find the park to sleep in, seriously. As luck would have it, my day was saved once again, and I got to be the third cyclist ever to stay in the brand new Trans America cycling hostel, in Farmington, Missouri.
Maybe that does not sound like a big deal, but after weeks of sleeping on the ground, in the rain, and wearing yesterdays sweaty spandex; I needed a break as much as ever, and this was definitely it. I was the only one there, obviously, so I got to lounge on couches, do my laundry, have a long, hot shower, and sleep in a real bunk bed! What a treat.
Today I decided to celebrate my arrival in a new state with a short day, and to prepare myself for the ominous Appalachian mountains which I will be hitting in just a few days. Supposedly, this Mountain range is the toughest yet. I guess I was lying to myself the whole time when I thought I was done with the hard stuff after Colorado. But...I think, if I have made it this far already, there is clearly no turning around, and I'm pretty sure I can handle the challenge.
Feeling more ready than ever to hit the East soon, and taking all the kind words of strangers with me to keep me going.
PS. Could somebody remind me what life was like before the bike? Its beginning to feel like I have never, ever done anything else in life; besides riding a bicycle for nine hours every day, sleeping in parks, and eating ice cream and donuts every chance I get. I feel like there is something I'm forgetting, like my former life was really a dream... did I ever do anything else??
cheers!
11.9.09
toto, we are STILL in Kansas.
Current location: Pittsburg, KS..soon to be MISSOURI.
Miles the last two days: 84, 59
total miles: I think I'm gonna stop counting for awhile, I still have 1,000 plural to go....uugh
let me just take a deep breath for a second. phew...
So I left you all back in the rainy days of Hesston, KS. I braved the storm and luckily made it out alive, and with no lightening bolts I might add. The morning I left Hesston was a race to avoid the giant black storm cloud that seemed to be just in front of me the entire day.
A highlight of the morning was meeting two people along the road. I spotted them from a distance, and for a split second had a twinge that it might be my sister walking towards me and the horizon. It was not her, obviously, but it was an older solo woman cyclist (my first sighting!) and a younger man who, get this, is walking-I repeat, WALKING - across the country! I was feeling like this little journey of mine is taking a very long time, but this boy has already been walking for four months! I think I may have made a face similar to the once usually directed at me, you know, eyes go wide and you lose control of your mouth for a second, but once I came to my senses I realized how cool the idea actually is. He just finished getting his masters and decided to just do "something cool." I decided, we should probably be friends.
The rest of that day was actually pretty tough, its not so much fun biking through grey clouds of fog, misting rain, and nasty headwinds. About 25 miles before my foreseen destination, and five miles before a one stop town, my knee started hurting so bad it felt like I was actually limping on my bike. Kind of feels like a sniper hit my knee from the roof of a building, or the top of a windmill in this case. About ready to give up and lay in a ditch, I luckily came across the one diner in this middle of nowhere town. Limping in looking all frazzled and upset, the older couple greeted me warmly and avidly expressed their shock at me being a single woman. In a weird way, its starting to feel good that people who are so used to seeing touring cyclists out on the road, are still surprised to see me all alone.
Well, I obviously looked the usual level of haggard after a day on the road, and I asked them if and where I could camp for the night, already knowing full well there was no where. The woman thought for a minute, and told me that probably out back would be fine. Then it was like a light bulb went off and she jumped up to use the phone, calling her friend down the street. She got her neighbors to open the church up for me, so I could sleep indoors; out of the rain, and off the street. She even packed up a cinnamon roll for me, another staple of my diet.
What a night. Surprisingly it was a little creepy to sleep in the basement of a church by myself, but it was great to stay totally dry, and to be out of the tent for a night, propelling me to nice early start the next day.
Another bit of exciting news: There are rumors going around, and out here word spreads pretty fast, of another solo female cyclist! I first heard about her this morning as I was preparing to leave, and then someone else told me about her in the next town. Apparently I am in hot pursuit of a South African woman cyclist. I feel like I already stalk bikers on the road, but this time it must be a sign. Unfortunately, she is nowhere to be found! I'm starting to think she is another urban legend like all the other solo women travelers out there, because I keep hearing about them, I just cannot find them! It might be nice to have someone to ride with for a few days, not to mention someone to talk to. I'm doing my best to not become one of those crazies that talks aloud all day, although you know I sing at the top of my lungs pretty much all day, and have started the bad habit of cussing like a sailor at any car that passes too close...so I might just be closer to that image than you all thought.
Now here I am in Pittsburg Kansas, just five miles away from the border of Missouri! I couldn't bring myself to bike the extra 40 miles to the next closest thing to a town, so the big border crossing will have to be in the morning.
That's all for now, I should probably leave the library and find a shower, and maybe put on something besides these sexy spandex...hmm.
Miles the last two days: 84, 59
total miles: I think I'm gonna stop counting for awhile, I still have 1,000 plural to go....uugh
let me just take a deep breath for a second. phew...
So I left you all back in the rainy days of Hesston, KS. I braved the storm and luckily made it out alive, and with no lightening bolts I might add. The morning I left Hesston was a race to avoid the giant black storm cloud that seemed to be just in front of me the entire day.
A highlight of the morning was meeting two people along the road. I spotted them from a distance, and for a split second had a twinge that it might be my sister walking towards me and the horizon. It was not her, obviously, but it was an older solo woman cyclist (my first sighting!) and a younger man who, get this, is walking-I repeat, WALKING - across the country! I was feeling like this little journey of mine is taking a very long time, but this boy has already been walking for four months! I think I may have made a face similar to the once usually directed at me, you know, eyes go wide and you lose control of your mouth for a second, but once I came to my senses I realized how cool the idea actually is. He just finished getting his masters and decided to just do "something cool." I decided, we should probably be friends.
The rest of that day was actually pretty tough, its not so much fun biking through grey clouds of fog, misting rain, and nasty headwinds. About 25 miles before my foreseen destination, and five miles before a one stop town, my knee started hurting so bad it felt like I was actually limping on my bike. Kind of feels like a sniper hit my knee from the roof of a building, or the top of a windmill in this case. About ready to give up and lay in a ditch, I luckily came across the one diner in this middle of nowhere town. Limping in looking all frazzled and upset, the older couple greeted me warmly and avidly expressed their shock at me being a single woman. In a weird way, its starting to feel good that people who are so used to seeing touring cyclists out on the road, are still surprised to see me all alone.
Well, I obviously looked the usual level of haggard after a day on the road, and I asked them if and where I could camp for the night, already knowing full well there was no where. The woman thought for a minute, and told me that probably out back would be fine. Then it was like a light bulb went off and she jumped up to use the phone, calling her friend down the street. She got her neighbors to open the church up for me, so I could sleep indoors; out of the rain, and off the street. She even packed up a cinnamon roll for me, another staple of my diet.
What a night. Surprisingly it was a little creepy to sleep in the basement of a church by myself, but it was great to stay totally dry, and to be out of the tent for a night, propelling me to nice early start the next day.
Another bit of exciting news: There are rumors going around, and out here word spreads pretty fast, of another solo female cyclist! I first heard about her this morning as I was preparing to leave, and then someone else told me about her in the next town. Apparently I am in hot pursuit of a South African woman cyclist. I feel like I already stalk bikers on the road, but this time it must be a sign. Unfortunately, she is nowhere to be found! I'm starting to think she is another urban legend like all the other solo women travelers out there, because I keep hearing about them, I just cannot find them! It might be nice to have someone to ride with for a few days, not to mention someone to talk to. I'm doing my best to not become one of those crazies that talks aloud all day, although you know I sing at the top of my lungs pretty much all day, and have started the bad habit of cussing like a sailor at any car that passes too close...so I might just be closer to that image than you all thought.
Now here I am in Pittsburg Kansas, just five miles away from the border of Missouri! I couldn't bring myself to bike the extra 40 miles to the next closest thing to a town, so the big border crossing will have to be in the morning.
That's all for now, I should probably leave the library and find a shower, and maybe put on something besides these sexy spandex...hmm.
8.9.09
HALF WAY IN KANSAS.
total miles: 2,043!
miles biked 9/7, 9/8: 98 & 97
have i cycled over half of the United States: YES!!
Here I am waiting out the Seattle rain in Heston, Kansas. I woke up last night at 3am to lightening and thunder, and the pounding rain on my tent. Sure I was going to be hit by lightening, all I could really do was roll over and listen to the rain.
Turns out, I didn't get hit by a lightening bolt, but I was stuck hiding in my tent all morning, waiting for the rain to die off.
I made it out this afternoon to explore this huge city of Heston, (population: around 1,000; which seems like a lot considering where I am coming from!) finally found a place to do laundry, and of course, feed my starving belly.
The great news is: I have finally surpassed the halfway mark, not only of the entire US, but of this long journey I am on. It felt pretty great to realize that I have already biked over 2,000 miles and I am well on my way to nearing the coast-in a few more weeks that is.
The disappointing news is that I don't get to meet up with Channing, my sister. Definitely a mental downer, and I been feeling a little bummed out, but generally trying to stay positive. Literally taking it one mile at a time. I guess since I have already made it this far, threes no stopping me now, right?!
The past few days have been extremely long days of riding, we're talking ten hours on the bike, hitting nearly a hundred miles. First of all, let me just point out the myth behind the prevailing winds. I have been 'looking forward' to the prairie flat lands of the middle states for a few weeks now, thinking I would just sail along with a nice tail wind. However, rather than breezing through I have been battling some pretty strong headwinds. For those of you not familiar with this phenomenon; I like to think of it as equivalent to pulling a couple football players, on a sled, with a keg of beer. One word to describe it: brutal.
As much as I was thinking the mountains were actually the difficult part, the prairies are proving to be a lot more challenging than I thought. At least with climbing a mountain there is always the reward of going downhill, and the breathtaking surroundings are pretty nice to look at. The flat roads running through oil rigs, corn fields, and feed lots may sound pretty fantastic, but believe me; they are not all they are cracked up to be. It seems like all I can do is keep on pedaling and pushing through the wind, rain, lightening, and endless fields of gold.
I might be painting a pretty grey picture of what my days feel like lately, and trust me, its not always pretty...but there are some great things to tell as well.
My trail angels, or I should call them asphalt angels; the wonderful people who appear out of nowhere when I need them most, have been plentiful and generous. For example, a few days ago after one of those ten hour days of pedaling, feeling exhausted and on the brink of tears. I arrived in Larned, KS. one of the larger towns I have ridden through, complete with romantic brick roads and all the fast food a girl could ever want. I was unsure of where I could sleep, if I would get a shower, and if there would even be a food establishment open nearing the holiday.
Low and behold, as soon as I found a Wendy's to add some more meat to my diet, I ran into this cutie old man who had seen me ride up earlier. He offered to buy me a cheeseburger, which I obviously could not turn down. So we sat, he and I, this sweet old man named Keith, and he told me about life in Kansas and asked about cycling. He gave me his phone number saying that he has unlimited minutes and can talk anytime. He wanted an address, and I said, "sir, I'm on a bike, I don't have anything yet."
So feeling better about the night already, I rolled down the corner - a game I like to play when I'm at the end of the rope with cycling, trying to get as far as possible without actually pedaling. I found a hotel that seemed to have an RV park for campers, and the girl working that night must have had a great day because she actually let me shower in one of the rooms, and let me set up my tent in the back of the hotel. Just my style, sleeping in a tent, next to a hotel because I'm too broke to actually sleep in a room - imagine that.
I was also invited to a family reunion picnic in the park I camped at in Dighton, KS. The sweetest old woman named Gay, I think because she is just so cheery, approached me while I was setting up camp. She piled up a huge plate of picnic fixings for me, and even wrapped up two huge pieces of cake, "for later," she said. When she found out I was in fact alone, instead of looking at me with disdain and confusion like most people, she just smiled and said, "Well, my goodness, bless your heart young lady, you are just so far from home." Also another good thing to hear, because it means I am closer to my destination than I am to home on the West at this point!
So for now I will continue to wait out the rain in some far away library, or quaint little cafe in the middle of nowhere ville Kansas. I will hopefully make it to Missouri in just a few short days if it ever stops raining!!
over and out.
Sid.
miles biked 9/7, 9/8: 98 & 97
have i cycled over half of the United States: YES!!
Here I am waiting out the Seattle rain in Heston, Kansas. I woke up last night at 3am to lightening and thunder, and the pounding rain on my tent. Sure I was going to be hit by lightening, all I could really do was roll over and listen to the rain.
Turns out, I didn't get hit by a lightening bolt, but I was stuck hiding in my tent all morning, waiting for the rain to die off.
I made it out this afternoon to explore this huge city of Heston, (population: around 1,000; which seems like a lot considering where I am coming from!) finally found a place to do laundry, and of course, feed my starving belly.
The great news is: I have finally surpassed the halfway mark, not only of the entire US, but of this long journey I am on. It felt pretty great to realize that I have already biked over 2,000 miles and I am well on my way to nearing the coast-in a few more weeks that is.
The disappointing news is that I don't get to meet up with Channing, my sister. Definitely a mental downer, and I been feeling a little bummed out, but generally trying to stay positive. Literally taking it one mile at a time. I guess since I have already made it this far, threes no stopping me now, right?!
The past few days have been extremely long days of riding, we're talking ten hours on the bike, hitting nearly a hundred miles. First of all, let me just point out the myth behind the prevailing winds. I have been 'looking forward' to the prairie flat lands of the middle states for a few weeks now, thinking I would just sail along with a nice tail wind. However, rather than breezing through I have been battling some pretty strong headwinds. For those of you not familiar with this phenomenon; I like to think of it as equivalent to pulling a couple football players, on a sled, with a keg of beer. One word to describe it: brutal.
As much as I was thinking the mountains were actually the difficult part, the prairies are proving to be a lot more challenging than I thought. At least with climbing a mountain there is always the reward of going downhill, and the breathtaking surroundings are pretty nice to look at. The flat roads running through oil rigs, corn fields, and feed lots may sound pretty fantastic, but believe me; they are not all they are cracked up to be. It seems like all I can do is keep on pedaling and pushing through the wind, rain, lightening, and endless fields of gold.
I might be painting a pretty grey picture of what my days feel like lately, and trust me, its not always pretty...but there are some great things to tell as well.
My trail angels, or I should call them asphalt angels; the wonderful people who appear out of nowhere when I need them most, have been plentiful and generous. For example, a few days ago after one of those ten hour days of pedaling, feeling exhausted and on the brink of tears. I arrived in Larned, KS. one of the larger towns I have ridden through, complete with romantic brick roads and all the fast food a girl could ever want. I was unsure of where I could sleep, if I would get a shower, and if there would even be a food establishment open nearing the holiday.
Low and behold, as soon as I found a Wendy's to add some more meat to my diet, I ran into this cutie old man who had seen me ride up earlier. He offered to buy me a cheeseburger, which I obviously could not turn down. So we sat, he and I, this sweet old man named Keith, and he told me about life in Kansas and asked about cycling. He gave me his phone number saying that he has unlimited minutes and can talk anytime. He wanted an address, and I said, "sir, I'm on a bike, I don't have anything yet."
So feeling better about the night already, I rolled down the corner - a game I like to play when I'm at the end of the rope with cycling, trying to get as far as possible without actually pedaling. I found a hotel that seemed to have an RV park for campers, and the girl working that night must have had a great day because she actually let me shower in one of the rooms, and let me set up my tent in the back of the hotel. Just my style, sleeping in a tent, next to a hotel because I'm too broke to actually sleep in a room - imagine that.
I was also invited to a family reunion picnic in the park I camped at in Dighton, KS. The sweetest old woman named Gay, I think because she is just so cheery, approached me while I was setting up camp. She piled up a huge plate of picnic fixings for me, and even wrapped up two huge pieces of cake, "for later," she said. When she found out I was in fact alone, instead of looking at me with disdain and confusion like most people, she just smiled and said, "Well, my goodness, bless your heart young lady, you are just so far from home." Also another good thing to hear, because it means I am closer to my destination than I am to home on the West at this point!
So for now I will continue to wait out the rain in some far away library, or quaint little cafe in the middle of nowhere ville Kansas. I will hopefully make it to Missouri in just a few short days if it ever stops raining!!
over and out.
Sid.
4.9.09
Follow the yellow brick road...
miles ridden: around 1700!
states crossed: 4
time zones completed: 2
flat tires: 3
calories consumed: about a billion.
Howdy y'all, greetings from Tribune KANSAS. Yes that's right, I have officially crossed the border into the middle lands! The good news is that I am now only one time zone away from the East Coast, one state closer, and officially on flat lands for a little while!
I think I last left you at the wonderful Benham cabin in Colorado heaven. After planning to only stay for a day or two, I definitely posted up at the cabin for a solid five days. It was just too hard to resist Grandmothers delicious home cooked meals, a cozy bed in the bears den, and such wonderful company. Again, Rene and Milt, if you're reading, thank you for such a fantastic week! I could not have asked for a better way to spend my days off the bike. I have never eaten such delicious food, not to mention, I ate my first steak; which I thoroughly loved. My days of vegetarianism seem long gone at this point, I think the kicker may have been the pound of bacon we scarfed down on an over night backpacking trip, which may or may not have been followed by a sausage and brisket sandwich. (Danielle if you're reading, I give you FULL rights to take over my duty as vegetarian. Thanks!)
I reluctantly left Creede, CO on Sunday, with a lovely farewell send off from Chiara, her family, and friends. I rode off into the rising sun thinking I was just miles away from finishing...and then I realized the inevitable; I was still in Colorado, and in fact still have over 2,000 miles to go, yikes.
So here I am in Kansas, the place my parents called home so many years ago, and also the fated home of some of the worst tornadoes in our nation. I'm considering posting a sign on my u-haul (that would be my bike) which reads: "Tornado?? Tell me what to do!" I am obviously inexperienced with this kind of crazy weather.
All in all, I have ridden over the Sierra Nevada mountains, through the arid desert lands of Nevada, the hellish towering canyons of Utah, and now the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! I am feeling ready to conquer these prairie lands of OZ, and keep slowly inching my way closer to the coast.
I had my first rainfall in Lake City, CO, and my first instinct was naturally to think, "well, at least there is no lightning, yet." I must be a true Seattlite or something. I climbed over 11,000 ft twice in two days, and vowed along the way I would never set out on a bike tour like this again, unless I can claim to be from a country the size of Holland.
Yesterday, feeling great to be finishing my day early on, I rode into Eads CO, about 40 miles from the KS border. Let me just try to convey what was running through my head as I pulled up to the library, only to discover the sky was quickly changing from a light shade of blue, to a hue you never, ever want to see when you are cycling.
"ahh a cold beer sounds so good. maybe macaroni and cheese. oh what should i eat when i stop. sometimes love will knock you down. three more miles gotta. keep. pedaling.just go.keep going.come on legs.starving.ooh my legs hurt.hands hurt.butt hurts.damn i must look real haggard.beer.across the lines, who would dare to go.almost there.almost there-then i look up to the sky- oh mother of God. sh#*$. f#$(. you have got to be kidding me. what does this even mean. that sky looks scary as sh#$#. is that a tornado? omg i'm going to die. i must be f(*&8ing crazy.someone, anyone. balls. aahhhh."
That was pretty much how it went for a few minutes.
Luckily, as I was on the verge of panicking, watching the sky turn black, another trail angel stepped outside to save the day. Leroy spotted me outside the courthouse, fumbling around with my bike. All i could think to say was, "um, do you think it's going to rain?? Do you know somewhere I could stash my bike?" And the rest is history.
I was invited back to his house where we watched the storm take over the land. Standing int he open garage I watched lightening strike the earth with such ferocity I could only think how happy I was to not be biking anymore. I have never seen clouds so terrifying, but beautiful at the same time clouds. Leroy's wife came home after the storm was clearing, so naturally we decided to take a little drive in their pickup, drink case(s) of Keystone Light-while still driving- and frolic around the grassy prairies. They were very eager to give me a taste of the country life, and as my gracious hosts for the evening they certainly knew how to have a good time. In awe of their knowledge of all the plants and vegetation I had a full blown tutorial of all the plants growing in the prairie, just ask if you need to know something, because now I'm totally an expert. Cherie and I tried to watch Sex and the City, seems to be a pretty universal obsession, but I was feeling a little hazy from all the delicious Keystone and in my impending fog drifted asleep in the living room; which i must mention is also home to all of Leroy's prized hunting game. An elk head, two deers, two massive squirrels, and sadly a beautiful fox pelt lain gently on the tv. I may have shed a tear or two over that one.
Well friends, I think this is all I got for you now. Hoping to power through the massive prairies of Kansas. Wish me more trail angels, tail winds, and NO more storms!
much love.
CIAO.
S.
states crossed: 4
time zones completed: 2
flat tires: 3
calories consumed: about a billion.
Howdy y'all, greetings from Tribune KANSAS. Yes that's right, I have officially crossed the border into the middle lands! The good news is that I am now only one time zone away from the East Coast, one state closer, and officially on flat lands for a little while!
I think I last left you at the wonderful Benham cabin in Colorado heaven. After planning to only stay for a day or two, I definitely posted up at the cabin for a solid five days. It was just too hard to resist Grandmothers delicious home cooked meals, a cozy bed in the bears den, and such wonderful company. Again, Rene and Milt, if you're reading, thank you for such a fantastic week! I could not have asked for a better way to spend my days off the bike. I have never eaten such delicious food, not to mention, I ate my first steak; which I thoroughly loved. My days of vegetarianism seem long gone at this point, I think the kicker may have been the pound of bacon we scarfed down on an over night backpacking trip, which may or may not have been followed by a sausage and brisket sandwich. (Danielle if you're reading, I give you FULL rights to take over my duty as vegetarian. Thanks!)
I reluctantly left Creede, CO on Sunday, with a lovely farewell send off from Chiara, her family, and friends. I rode off into the rising sun thinking I was just miles away from finishing...and then I realized the inevitable; I was still in Colorado, and in fact still have over 2,000 miles to go, yikes.
So here I am in Kansas, the place my parents called home so many years ago, and also the fated home of some of the worst tornadoes in our nation. I'm considering posting a sign on my u-haul (that would be my bike) which reads: "Tornado?? Tell me what to do!" I am obviously inexperienced with this kind of crazy weather.
All in all, I have ridden over the Sierra Nevada mountains, through the arid desert lands of Nevada, the hellish towering canyons of Utah, and now the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! I am feeling ready to conquer these prairie lands of OZ, and keep slowly inching my way closer to the coast.
I had my first rainfall in Lake City, CO, and my first instinct was naturally to think, "well, at least there is no lightning, yet." I must be a true Seattlite or something. I climbed over 11,000 ft twice in two days, and vowed along the way I would never set out on a bike tour like this again, unless I can claim to be from a country the size of Holland.
Yesterday, feeling great to be finishing my day early on, I rode into Eads CO, about 40 miles from the KS border. Let me just try to convey what was running through my head as I pulled up to the library, only to discover the sky was quickly changing from a light shade of blue, to a hue you never, ever want to see when you are cycling.
"ahh a cold beer sounds so good. maybe macaroni and cheese. oh what should i eat when i stop. sometimes love will knock you down. three more miles gotta. keep. pedaling.just go.keep going.come on legs.starving.ooh my legs hurt.hands hurt.butt hurts.damn i must look real haggard.beer.across the lines, who would dare to go.almost there.almost there-then i look up to the sky- oh mother of God. sh#*$. f#$(. you have got to be kidding me. what does this even mean. that sky looks scary as sh#$#. is that a tornado? omg i'm going to die. i must be f(*&8ing crazy.someone, anyone. balls. aahhhh."
That was pretty much how it went for a few minutes.
Luckily, as I was on the verge of panicking, watching the sky turn black, another trail angel stepped outside to save the day. Leroy spotted me outside the courthouse, fumbling around with my bike. All i could think to say was, "um, do you think it's going to rain?? Do you know somewhere I could stash my bike?" And the rest is history.
I was invited back to his house where we watched the storm take over the land. Standing int he open garage I watched lightening strike the earth with such ferocity I could only think how happy I was to not be biking anymore. I have never seen clouds so terrifying, but beautiful at the same time clouds. Leroy's wife came home after the storm was clearing, so naturally we decided to take a little drive in their pickup, drink case(s) of Keystone Light-while still driving- and frolic around the grassy prairies. They were very eager to give me a taste of the country life, and as my gracious hosts for the evening they certainly knew how to have a good time. In awe of their knowledge of all the plants and vegetation I had a full blown tutorial of all the plants growing in the prairie, just ask if you need to know something, because now I'm totally an expert. Cherie and I tried to watch Sex and the City, seems to be a pretty universal obsession, but I was feeling a little hazy from all the delicious Keystone and in my impending fog drifted asleep in the living room; which i must mention is also home to all of Leroy's prized hunting game. An elk head, two deers, two massive squirrels, and sadly a beautiful fox pelt lain gently on the tv. I may have shed a tear or two over that one.
Well friends, I think this is all I got for you now. Hoping to power through the massive prairies of Kansas. Wish me more trail angels, tail winds, and NO more storms!
much love.
CIAO.
S.
27.8.09
heaven on earth.
I am writing you all from my dear friend Chiara's grandparents cabin in beautiful Creede, Colorado. Yes, that's right, I made it out of the hellish lands of Utah and on to my fourth state! I am enjoying a wonderful few days of rest, lovely company, delicious food, and the dreamlike scenery of this gorgeous state.
I'll try to back track a few days to give a little recap of the crazy happenings in bike world.
After months of talking up Utah and all her glory, I decided we are absolutely not on speaking terms anymore. Utah and I, that is. While the landscape is absolutely stunning from the grandiose red rock canyons to the spiraling hoodoo rock formations, there is a twist. Never, and I repeat never attempt to cycle through Utah, unless you are in fact crazy. I may just be living up to the most frequently asked question I get on a near daily basis, which is just that, "umm, are you crazy?"
Alright, I may be exaggerating a little bit, although if you had maybe seen me on any one of my last days in Utah I might have been unrecognizable. I have never been beaten down so hard by one state before; I was beginning to feel a little defeated. The incredible headwinds were nearly enough to knock me off my bike, my knee was hurting something fierce, and the intensity of the heat was enough to make my bike look like a camel packed with water bottles. Literally packed, there were at least six alone strapped to my tent on the top of my bags. Needless to say, I made it out alive, and could not be happier.
On a lighter note, I was able to camp in one of most amazing natural landscapes I have witnessed, on Lake Powell in Southern Utah. I rode into the lake, more like crawled at snail pace to the lake, as the sun was edging toward the canyon walls. I took my first dip of the trip in the lake, and proceeded to fall asleep on the rocks immediately after crawling out of the water.
Now I am enjoying a wonderful retreat at the Benhams cabin in Colorado, literally a little heaven on earth. This week was definitely a huge motivater in getting my legs to work the rest of the state of Utah.
We have had some great adventures out here in the mountains so far, although yesterday I took a little spill on a four wheeler, and nearly thought my trip would be finished. We enjoyed a whole day of reckless driving around Bristol Head Mountain on the ATV's, and of course the minute we slow down to normal speed, the ATV landed on top of us. Luckily we were moving at my normal bike speed, very slow, and were near a ditch. I was lucky enough to roll away only a couple scratches, oh and a giant black eye and nose. Just adding to the effect of this whole look I'm going with.
Otherwise, things are looking up. I only have a few more 'hills' to climb in Colorado, which may or may not be referred to as the Rockies. Those little things should only take me a few days to get over, no worries. Heading out on a camping adventure tomorrow to continue enjoying my new favorite state, Colorado. Only a few more hours of hot tub, bed, showers, company, and five star meals all day until I am back on the road again.
Lots more stories to come, so stay tuned. Its hard to think about biking when I'm sipping a cold beer in the hot tub, so maybe once I'm back in the zone the stories will all come back.
PEACE Y'all.
I'll try to back track a few days to give a little recap of the crazy happenings in bike world.
After months of talking up Utah and all her glory, I decided we are absolutely not on speaking terms anymore. Utah and I, that is. While the landscape is absolutely stunning from the grandiose red rock canyons to the spiraling hoodoo rock formations, there is a twist. Never, and I repeat never attempt to cycle through Utah, unless you are in fact crazy. I may just be living up to the most frequently asked question I get on a near daily basis, which is just that, "umm, are you crazy?"
Alright, I may be exaggerating a little bit, although if you had maybe seen me on any one of my last days in Utah I might have been unrecognizable. I have never been beaten down so hard by one state before; I was beginning to feel a little defeated. The incredible headwinds were nearly enough to knock me off my bike, my knee was hurting something fierce, and the intensity of the heat was enough to make my bike look like a camel packed with water bottles. Literally packed, there were at least six alone strapped to my tent on the top of my bags. Needless to say, I made it out alive, and could not be happier.
On a lighter note, I was able to camp in one of most amazing natural landscapes I have witnessed, on Lake Powell in Southern Utah. I rode into the lake, more like crawled at snail pace to the lake, as the sun was edging toward the canyon walls. I took my first dip of the trip in the lake, and proceeded to fall asleep on the rocks immediately after crawling out of the water.
Now I am enjoying a wonderful retreat at the Benhams cabin in Colorado, literally a little heaven on earth. This week was definitely a huge motivater in getting my legs to work the rest of the state of Utah.
We have had some great adventures out here in the mountains so far, although yesterday I took a little spill on a four wheeler, and nearly thought my trip would be finished. We enjoyed a whole day of reckless driving around Bristol Head Mountain on the ATV's, and of course the minute we slow down to normal speed, the ATV landed on top of us. Luckily we were moving at my normal bike speed, very slow, and were near a ditch. I was lucky enough to roll away only a couple scratches, oh and a giant black eye and nose. Just adding to the effect of this whole look I'm going with.
Otherwise, things are looking up. I only have a few more 'hills' to climb in Colorado, which may or may not be referred to as the Rockies. Those little things should only take me a few days to get over, no worries. Heading out on a camping adventure tomorrow to continue enjoying my new favorite state, Colorado. Only a few more hours of hot tub, bed, showers, company, and five star meals all day until I am back on the road again.
Lots more stories to come, so stay tuned. Its hard to think about biking when I'm sipping a cold beer in the hot tub, so maybe once I'm back in the zone the stories will all come back.
PEACE Y'all.
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